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the view from my hotel
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Norbulingka Institute
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Bhagsunag Falls
So I came back from a long overdue holiday almost 5 days back. And such is the disbelief at returning back to Delhi, being surrounded by work and chaos all over again, that I havent been able jump back to the “same old routine” kind of stuff. Anyhow, as it goes, it has to happen..
However, just because im experiencing withdrawal symptoms in some rather perverse kind of way, doesnt mean that the marvellous place I went to shouldnt get its due. So this post is about the trip, and i shall try to write it with as scarce a tone of disappointment at being back, as I can muster.
So our roads and our train tickets led us to PathanKot and from there a taxi service, which seemed overpriced to me, led us to Dharamshla, and further up, to Mcloed Ganj. To do justice to my friends remark- Mcloed Gunj is AWE-fu*****- SOME. It certainly is. Maybe that remark played a role in landing me there.
Anyhow, so it was (and still is) December. when we got off at the station, it seemed like it. Winters were floating around us in white fogs and curtaining the sights with its thick blurs. But as we climbed up, the welcome sun arrived and bathed us in warmth and golden pearls. It was at a mid-way stop at some Dhaba that I first had the chance to step out of the Taxi and stare yonder..And the only thing going on in my head that time was- “O my god..this is so damn beautiful”.
And surrounded by picturesque scenarios, we reached Mcloed Gunj. We decided to put up at a place called The Asia Health Resorts- the best place there is to stay there. As my sister noticed- the name kind of sounds like a rehab centre! But the place, though done in not so nice taste externally (it has a pista green colour on its exterior walls!), is actually really nice. It is luxurious, has a breathtaking view, efficient services, all facilities, electric mattresses:) and a great restaurant and bar, not to forget the lounge with Lazy Boy chairs and the spa facilities.
And the next four days were spent in discovering and falling in love with the place…Im going to try and put down my experiences here.
Things to See- Simply put, there isnt much. You should go to the Bhagsunag falls, though there is scarcely any water at this time of the year. But the sound of water is absolutely magical and is sure to lift up your damp spirits. Also, having “veggie-maggie” with steaming coffee sitting on the rocks, with the fall lazily flowing at your side, it is a different experience. Dont know about everyone, but I love the sound of water echoing in the mountains and filling the valleys with its symphony!
-Next thing i suggest you see are a couple of monasteries. The way the Tibetans adorn their temples is totally different, very simple, yet flashy, very silent, and a very different sight. Its a peek in a totally different world. And you do get glimpses of extreme devotion, a struggle to prevent a culture from fading away, a fight to live in authenticity in an alien land, and a sense of contentment-at having a little space of their own, of having a cause…to live and die for..Add to all this beautiful settings and extremely polite and helpful people and the experience becomes worth it. Plus, you just have to wonder how the monks can move around in December without the aid of woolens!
-Then ofcourse, there is the small mall road. It has a huge stock of very good looking woolens, the stuff D.Shala is famous for. The stuff is decently priced too. Also, there are little little nice things, like Buddhist charms in all colours and shapes, books on Buddhist Culture, interesting postcards and fake branded products. Its a pleasure bargaining with the locals,though you might not always succeed.
ANother place you must visit is the Norbulingka Institute. This is situated further down in Kangra District. The purpose of the existence of this place, as its stub line suggests is – Preserving Tibetan Culture. Here in they teach and train students in various arts and crafts like wood carving, cloth designing etc etc. All that apart, its a massive and a beautiful place. Excellently maintained, with a great doll museum, an exorbitantly priced commercial centre and a big and elegant temple. Its a really peaceful place and gives you an overwhelming sense of being surrounded by history..Nay, of living in history itself.
there are other places i heard about but didnt visit- Of these Dharmakot and Pong valley seemed worth giving a try.
The Food- Ah! my favorite part. I would suggest only two places- both on the mall road.
-The first is Mc LLo’s. It is the favorite there. The coolest as we say for the local elite and the visiting tourist. Try the chicken steamed momos- the chutney is so amazing. The chicken soup is very different.You could also try the famous butter chicken and the pastas.
-the next place is OOgo’s- the complete Italian Kitchen. This strangely named place is some where hidden on the main mall road and kind of takes you by surprise once you enter. It has a very nice and modern ambiance, red and yellow lamps hanging over each table, excellent music, an ad-hoc read-in collection of books, and well, simply excellent food! and at prices at which Delhi people and Big Chill lovers can only gape at. Try any of the pastas, more specifically, chicken in Piri-piri sauce. You can also go in for one of their fresh bakes (penne with mozarella), or the chicken steak with veggies main dish. The chicken sausages are awesome. so is the Chocolate Mousse.The service is slow, and the lady which sits at the desk not very friendly (she is constantly angry at the cook cum waiter- he is named Chinde), but the food more than makes up for it. All in all, its a must visit joint. No wonder you shall see a lot of foreign tourists hopping to this place.You will Miss it when you are back. I do.
-If you are a vegetarian or don’t mind being one occasionally- try the roadside veg and potato momos. I cant claim I liked them a lot. The chutney was really nice though.
-If you are staying up at Asia Health Resorts- try the Butter Chicken. It is reallly nice.
-Liquor, needless to say is most easily available at every nook and corner.
Some other highlights of the place are- the wonderful night sky. Clear and beautiful. The way the local people talk- you can understand but not comprehend. hehe. the Huge, and i mean Huge size of pastries everywhere.
All in all the place affords a lazy and a beautiful experience. There aren’t too many nice hotels and you have to do a bit of searching before zeroing in on any. But that doesn’t matter too much..given the dose of beauty and peace you get once there.
I yet again feel sad at being back!