The Road less Traveled- A visit to Unchagaon Fort.

Unchagaon– A very unfamiliar name, and place. Yes, it is a place, a very tangible one. This place is located some 35 kms off the Delhi-Moradabad highway. The narrow road that leads to it is covered with lush green on both sides and is cut-off from the common view. You would imagine that road to lead to a small, inconsequential village, the kind which is unaware of the city existence, and have never heard of malls and cafes. No wonder then, that this road leads to Unchagaon.. An existence that the city is equally unaware of.

The Fort Unchagaon was built in the early 18th century as a home to Jat rulers who rose in prominence during the decline of Mughal Empire. It was originally made of mud, but walls ware later replaced by brick, and old building inside the fort was totally renovated dur

The Entrance

ing the 1930′s to give it a distinctly colonial look. The present king, Rajah Surendra Pal Singh, has modified the fort in such a way that it has retained its authenticity but has also accommodated in its Diaspora the strains of the 20th century modern architecture.

The fort is located some 116km from Delhi. It was commercialized only in the year 2005. The place is so hidden that you cant have a view of it unless you are only 100cms away from its entrance. The fort stands right in the middle of this village called Unchagaon, which ironically is a level flat plain. The river of Ganga flows calmly besides the village. this particular stretch is also the most populous stretch along the shore of the river. So as soon as you enter the long, narrow road you start seeing the rural life in all its essence. The buffaloes, the mopeds, the women collecting wood and hay hidden behind veils, the Jugaadu tractors growling away to glory.. And to complete the picture, there is a school, more of a courtyard, where students squat and write on the floor. And yeah, there is also the unmistakable sign of tradition and culture- The Desi Sharab Theka, which is government certified, btw.

You have to deal with swarming crowds and cattle and goats and the daily Sadak bazaar to reach the place. (only the last one km or so. Otherwise the journey is pretty smooth.. except a small distance) On the way, people shall give you the looks which rural people give when they see a big car city intruder. .. However, once you enter the huge walls of the fort, you leave the village behind as the creaky gate closes behind you. herein, a complete silence engulfs you. There is no other noise than the birds chirping, the trees rustling and the occasional grunts of the extremely healthy horses in their manicured stables.

The fort dosent look like a fort. It is comparatively smaller in size when compared to the majestic estates of the other dynasties. It is more on the lines of a Haveli. There are around 22 rooms in the fort. Some of them have been recently added. The building is completely done in white and has the old, rustic aura around it. The ad-hoc repair work is still going on and the place takes queer turns around hidden narrow staircases.

Enter the dining room and the polite staff shall introduce you into an amazingly well-preserved lobby of sorts, wherein cruel faces of angry tigers stare at you. Its a different experience altogether. Even a little scary to have so many dead- alive animals proudly hung by their hunters looking down as if they are ready to eat you. But it sure feels wonderful. it would have been amazing to have a cold beer sitting amongst the royal dead, but tragically, the hotel people (if im allowed to say that word!) don’t serve anything in that room.

Fort Unchagaon.

The immaculately maintained lawns are a rather pleasant site, and the food served at the buffet lunch is delicious! The rooms are very very minimalistic in appearance and are rather sparsely furnished. believe it or not, they dont have a TV set or an intercom… Although they do have an air-conditioner..As the weather demands. The rooms however are sparking clean and have all the necessities required for comfort.

The place also has a list of activities like the boat cruise, pottery making and horse riding. The stretch of Ganga, some 6 kms away form the fort, is famous for the view of sparkling dolphins. Although I partook in none of these pleasures, thanks to the paucity of time, i did play Badminton, not too well…

The fort is mostly visited by corporates for conferences or on company trips. All in all i shall declare the place a rather calming, different experience. A day away from the madness of the city into into the seclusion of the country life. And im sure it would be the most serene thing, having a coffee on the terrace of the fort on a cold winter evening. .. That is the best time to visit this place.

The fort has gained much popularity of late compared to its earlier anonymity, but it still hasnt reached a level where the old world charm is destroyed. Before that happens..I suggest you visit it.

And yeah, I forgot to mention.. The village of Unchagaon does have a Pukka Sadak, Airtel-Vodafone towers and stores and even a Cyber Cafe..Not to forget the Police station with two esteem Cars parked in front of it.